Mataiva, the Isle of the Nine Eyes

Its name translates into the Nine Eyes, referring to the 9 channels that break through the barrier reef to connect the lagoon and the ocean.
Mataiva is quite unique from the sky as its lagoon resembles a cerulean leopard skin surrounded by verdant virgin islets.
The contrast in depths and colors partly comes from the digging for phosphates back in the days.
"For about 10 years, our elders had to go fish on the atolls of Tikehau and Rangiroa because our lagoon was too polluted from the digging making it impossible to consume our local resources," says one of our guides.
Yes... fact: every country had its sad story as would say an artist I met in Uruguay.

That part of the atoll's story is now behind and our first encounter with Mataiva is colorful and lively! We are greeted by live music and songs, fragrant Tiare Tahiti flower leis and large smiles.
On the drive to our guesthouse, we can already feel the genuine atmosphere of this small atoll. From the colorful gardens, to the small minimal houses or the benches lined up along the lagoon everywhere.

On atolls, there is no freshwater... Rainwater is collected through large containers. It is also pumped from the coral grounds... the mix of both makes water here a little salty... and extremely precious.
There are no mountains, no rivers nor waterfalls. Atolls are completely flat and slightly elevated above sea levels.

On these isolated tiny dots of coral and sand forged by the natural movements of the elements, we learn to live an even simpler life that revolves around the atoll's primal resources, the lagoon and ocean and coconuts... lots of coconuts.

Every house is adorned with beautiful flowers and trees. There are no fences... everyone knows everyone. And everyone is genuinely welcoming.
There are no hords of tourists either... and travelers who make it all the way to Mataiva are not here by chance. They have chosen the slow life between ocean and lagoon. They have chosen to step out of their comfort zone to experience a more authentic journey... unhurried, off the beaten paths.

After a day swimming and shell hunting on the beach, we take a stroll to the ocean side of the atoll for sunset. Againts the waves crashing on the reef, the sun sends us a final luminous embrace... all we can hear are the waves... and the invigorating wind.
Venus makes a majestic appearance in the celestial sunset tapestry. I don't think I have ever seen her that bright in the sky! And surely, without any light pollution, the stars just appear brighter in the heavenly roof.
The fragrance of the bountiful tiare flowers lingers in the air...
We are in Mataiva, the atoll of Nine Eyes... We know it will be a sweet night filled by dreams of shiny stars guiding the way of our ancestors' double-hulled canoes.

On the second day of our Mataiva escape, we travel by wooden boat to the opposite of the atoll. Navigating through the lagoon here requires full attention as some coral heads are not always visible from afar...
We fish on the way... our catch of the day will be cooked on the barbecue for lunch.
As we are taught about how precious water is in those remote atolls, we are also taught to be flexible and eat what Nature provides here. Life revolves around the lagoon and ocean... and coconut plantations.
And that is what will also be found in most meals.

Ayurveda and indigenous wisdom teach us to eat according to our environment (outer and inner) and the seasons. What is around us is Nature's gift to nourish our body temple and our subtler layers.
The further we go from the most touristy islands, the more it is a true way of life.
They live in tune with the natural cycles, aware of what is going on in their environment. This is rare today and the natives all around the world are the keepers of such wisdom and profound knowledge.
Because they know how harmful it would be not to do so. They know they would jeopardize their own living.

I admire the capacity they have to create from what they are given. I think it takes strong, aware, mindful beings to live in such environments.
On our day journey, we stop at what the locals call "The Turtle Rock," a large piece of fossilized coral that rises from the reef ocean side. Our guide explains:

"You see, when we see a cloud that has this shape above the main pass to the atoll, it is a sign that a big swell is coming. When we see it above this rock, it is a sign that the turtles are coming to lay eggs. When it is above one of the small channels close to our home, it means that one of ours has left their physical body."

I like to to think of Mataiva's nine eyes as not only the link between the lagoon and the ocean but the eyes of the ancestors watching over their children, and protecting this now preserved sanctuary.

Mataiva is breathtaking! From the shores, the lagoon extends infinitely into surreal shades of blue. No one around except us... this, is luxury!
We soak up the delicious sun, swim in heavenly waters and for lunch, delight in homemade coconut bread prepared and cooked right there on an open fire... and of course, fish. The raw version and our local stapple: raw tuna marinated in lime juice and freshly squeezed coconut milk. And some grilled fish freshly caught.
For plates, we each get a large green leaf... no cutlery either... time to use those fingers for something else than scrolling on our phones hehe :-)
Did I mention that this is also a digital detox? No high speed internet on Mataiva, just limited wifi service... that I choose not to use at all during my time here. And what a treat to myself!

We sit in the shallow lagoon, eat with our fingers, feed the fish at the same time with our leftovers... circle of Life...
Everything in our meal is organic... And eating with our fingers is a healthy habit we have lost with modernity.
My 9-year-old niece who was born in France and lives in Paris is enjoying all of that fully. She went from not wanting to eat fish to eating it with her fingers with delight and joy, sitting in the lagoon next to me.

The day ends with another stunning sunset and Venus, as the Queen of the evening. I feel so deeply grateful to experience this slice of paumotu life... because after all, my ancestors arrived here in the Tuamotu atolls... I gaze up at the stars, and I can hear their soft whispers and feel their warm embrace.

During our stay, we venture out to spend the day by Marae Papiro.
Marae are sacred open air temples where gatherings, ceremonies took place in the past. Made of stones or corals like here in the atolls, they are silent reminders of what life used to be then. They are the keepers of much knowledge, ancestral wisdom and rites.
This marae was destroyed by a cyclone but restored as best as possible by the inhabitants, thanks to the elders' memories.

Stretches of white and pink sand, dotted with radiant coconut trees surround the beautiful inviting waters.
It is so shallow in some parts that it seems you could just walk around forever.

In the middle of the lagoon, a small fossilized coral platform rises a little higher... it is called " Te Papa no Mataiva", Mataiva's platform. Locals say that you have not been to Mataiva if you do not set foot on the platform... and barefeet please ! Have you ever stepped on a surface with spiky fossilized coral? Well, here we go hahaha :-)
Little shiatsu massage for our feet : done!
Oral transmissions tell that this coral platform is one step of giant Tu from Rangiroa who was the protector of Mataiva.

The atoll is guarded by the sentinels, Papanui et 'Oatea, two rocks that proudly stand on each side of the channel that connects the protected lagoon to the vastness of the ocean.

I don’t think there would be enough words to express all that we felt in Mataiva. The simplicity of life right here, the true connection to Nature and its gifts and cycles, the absence of freshwater that makes us realize how blessed we are to have freshwater, the genuine kindness and generosity of the locals sharing their way of life and stories with us…

Yes Mataiva, you gave us so much! And we leave, our heart full, our eyes filled with blue and sunshine.
At the airport, some of the inhabitants have gathered to serenade us before we leave. “Oh Mataiva, enlace-moi encore”- “Oh Mataiva, give me another embrace…”
The voices resonate in the tiny airport, we absorb the last bits of Mataiva with each song, smile and the intoxicating scent of Tiare Tahiti flower leis that we received.

Life is simple… yet we tend to make it so complicated…

Mauruuru Mataiva! Until next time…